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Grey Street is tied to the history of the Indian population in
Durban. Indentured Indian labourers were first brought out by the
British in the 1860s to work the newly established sugarcane
plantations in Natal. Indian traders, mainly from the Gujarat area,
migrated to South Africa at the same time. Today, Durban has the
largest Asian population in sub-Saharan Africa and trade with India has
become a large part of the local economy. Grey Street exists today as
the old Indian business and residential area of Durban and the cultural
heart of KwaZulu-Natal Indian community.
Grey Street is given a particular Indian architectural character by
the “colonnades over pavements, narrow lanes leading to courtyards
behind and the fondness shown for the flamboyant and curvilinear
architecture of the 1920s and 1930s” (www.sahistory.org.za).
The boundaries of ‘Grey Street’ are Commercial Road in the south, Derby
Street in the north, Field Street in the east, and Brook and Cross
Street in the west. In Lotus People, Aziz Hassim explains how
the different streets in the 1950s and 60s performed different
functions. The eastern part of Victoria Street held the theatre, with
the west being reserved for the markets and grocery stores. Grey Street
itself was a clothing Mecca, with the latest fashions from London
skilfully recreated by local craftsmen. Queen Street had the barbers on
one side with the hardware and timber shops on the other, while Pine
Street was the territory of the tailors. Prince Edward Street housed
the sari shops and jewellers with tea-rooms selling sweetmeats
scattered throughout the area. The area is still, to a degree, divided
up into these specific segments though the old shops now compete with
an influx of cheap Chinese imports.
The Grey Street writers all,
unsurprisingly, produced works with political overtones. Nicol Street
Square, or ‘Red Square’, became an important site for political rallies
and speakers. In 1946, the Apartheid government instituted the Asiatic
Land Tenure and Indian Representation Act whereby Indians were to be
segregated forcefully into ‘Group Areas’. Dr Goonam’s family home was
expropriated by the government and bulldozed to make way for white
housing. After being arrested for her political activity, Goonam made
the following speech:
“I plead guilty and ask the court to impose the maximum sentence
permitted by law. … I was protesting against that oppressive and
pernicious law recently enacted against my people who had no part in
framing it. The Act spells disaster, ruin and a state of semi-serfdom
to our people who contributed greatly to the prosperity of this
country. South Africa we are reminded frequently, is a democratic
country…. I am here to vindicate this interpretation of democracy.”
Today many of the main ‘Grey Street’ figures have moved away or
died; and it no longer has the feel of the close-knit community
described in the texts. In Lotus People, Hassim writes:
“The street’s changing…Look around you. There was a time you could
spot half a dozen scotens with one sweep of your eyes. Not anymore. And
the cinemas - the Vic, the Royal, the Avalon - all no more than a
memory. What happened to Dhanjees Fruiterers, Victoria Furniture Mart,
Kapitans, that noisy Royal Tinsmith Company… hell buddy, I could go on
forever.”
As a historic literary region, Grey Street is comparable to
Sophiatown in Gauteng and District Six in Cape Town – all three were
vibrant multicultural areas existing in defiance of the apartheid
policies. Sophiatown and District Six were destroyed by the state and
so exist purely in the national consciousness as symbols of the
struggle. Grey Street, luckily, can still be visited.
Aziz Hassim, Phyllis Naidoo, Dr Goonam and Fatima Meer are all
writers who lived in Grey Street during the apartheid era. Recent
additions to the Grey Street literary scene are Mariam Akabor, author
of Flat 9, Ravi Govender, whose collection Down Memory Lane features stories of ‘old’ Durban, and Imraan Coovadia who wrote The Wedding.
Not known as a writer primarily but an important local and
international figure is Mahatma Ghandi who had links to Grey Street.
Another famous resident is Archbishop Dennis Hurley who was based at
the Emmanuel Cathedral located in the middle of the Casbah. Hurley was
linked to the anti-apartheid struggle as was the Cathedral as a place
of refuge.
Phyllis Naidoo (1928 - ) was a member of the Natal
Indian Congress and the South African Communist Party. She writes
mainly political non-fiction concerned with recording the history of
the struggle. Her publication most relevant to Grey Street is Footprints in Grey Street, a series of vignettes of the people she knew from her time in Grey Street.
Dr Goonam (1906 – 1999) worked as a doctor in Grey
Street but is remembered for her political activity. Together with
Doctors Dadoo and Naicker, she led the 1946 Indian Passive Resistance
Campaign against the anti-Indian Land Act, which would forcibly remove
Indians from their homes and place them in ghettos. In 1990 she
published her autobiography, Coolie Doctor. Her stories
vividly capture life in the Indian community in Durban. During one of
her house-visits a white child remarked “oh mummy, the coolie doctor is
here”, a name she then used for the title of her book.
Fatima Meer (1928 - ) was born in Grey Street and
was an anti-apartheid campaigner and founding member of the Federation
of South African Women that spearheaded the historic women’s march to
the Union Buildings in 1956. Meer has published more than forty books,
mostly non-fiction dealing with socio-economic issues, history and
autobiography, (see Mandela: Higher Than Hope).
Aziz Hassim (1935 - ) spent his formative years
fraternising on the streets of the Casbah. In an interview he states
that “the area had a kind of romance and bittersweet lifestyle during
the fifties and sixties, which lives on only in the minds of those that
inhabited it at the time”. Hassim’s debut novel, The Lotus People, won the 2001 Sanlam Literary Award and spans the events of this era.
Mariam Akabor (1984 - ) is a graduate of the UKZN creative writing program. She wrote Flat 9 from
her own experiences of living in Grey Street in a dilapidated block of
flats. The sense of community amongst the inhabitants of this block
echoes the sense of community that Hassim evokes in his novel showing
that the ‘old’ Grey Street still exists in small pockets in the area.
Ravi Govender hosts a talk show on the radio station Lotus FM. Down Memory Lane
is a collection of 35 stories from his column of the same name in the
Post newspaper, spanning life in Durban from the late 1800s to the
1960s and focused largely on Durban’s Indian history.
Imraan Coovadia (1970 - ) was born in Durban and
currently resides in New York, where he is an Assistant Professor in
the English Department at Adelphi University. His debut novel, The Wedding,
was shortlisted for the 2002 Sunday Times Fiction Award, Ama-Boeke
Prize (2003), and Dublin International Literary Award (2005). He is
also the author of Green-eyed Thieves.
For more, visit www.literarytourism.co.za
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